Before answering the question I need to explain what we mean with the black wine and where it comes from. Throughout the sixties, seventies and even eighties a huge amount of cheap, dark coloured wine was shipped from the Cahors region situated around the River Lot (South-West France) to the UK, which was made of 100% Auxerrois (also known as Malbec or Cot locally). Not much thought, effort and good vinicultural processes were applied to the winemaking producing a very tannic and sharp on the palate wine creating the nick name. Not surprisingly they lost their appeal big time as well as their market share. Another factor to take into account were the upcoming New World countries such as Argentina who started to make excellent Malbec’s, which were less tannic producing a beautiful nose and smooth aftertaste, which ironically was achieved with lot's of French expertise. No wonder that the Cahors region where the Malbec originates from were to keen re-establish the popular "black wine" of the 13th century.
In order to find out how they are doing this we visited several Châteaux in the Cahors region such as Château de Mercuès and Château de Caïx. We tasted wines from these wineries as well as Château de Haute-Serre, Château Leret Monpezat and many more wines produced by or liased with George Vigouroux. This merchant family in the Cahors region with over 100 years tradition has either purchased wineries and is producing their own wines or lending their expertise to the above mentioned Châteaux, all with viewpoint to improve the quality of the wines. For example they were instrumental in replanting vineyards after the severe frosts of 1956 destroyed most of the Cahors vineyards. Key to success is the immediate drinkability, achieved by softening the tannins through blending the Malbec with a maximum of 10% Merlot and Tannat. The Malbec gives the wine colour and intense fruitiness which can age, the Merlot softens the bouquet and the Tannat (main grape from the neighbouring Madiran region) enhances the Malbec. Overall the combined effort and investment has been successful, though still not recognised on a global scale.
So the answer to our question if there is room for the black wine is yes. The region has gone through such a huge transformation in the last 15 years that it does not deserve to be called black anymore with its negative connotation. They produce excellent value for money wines with lots of body. As everywhere in France it takes a bit knowledge to "locate" the excellent wines from the ones who have not yet made the journey of improvements, but I truly believe if you cannot afford the heavy priced Bordeaux wines these are fantastic alternatives to go with red meats, stews and hearty cheeses.
I would like to dedicate the article to Nick Elliott, UK Agent who introduced us to the Cahors wines, who unfortunately a year after we met in 2005 passed away in a car accident in Condom, leaving a wife and 2 young children.
If you want to read more on the Cahors Wines:
http://www.frenchentree.com/france-lot-quercy-cahors-wine/
http://www.vindecahors.fr/
http://www.atrium-online.fr/
http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/cahors.html
Marleen Stumpel
http://www.advintage-wines.co.uk/
In order to find out how they are doing this we visited several Châteaux in the Cahors region such as Château de Mercuès and Château de Caïx. We tasted wines from these wineries as well as Château de Haute-Serre, Château Leret Monpezat and many more wines produced by or liased with George Vigouroux. This merchant family in the Cahors region with over 100 years tradition has either purchased wineries and is producing their own wines or lending their expertise to the above mentioned Châteaux, all with viewpoint to improve the quality of the wines. For example they were instrumental in replanting vineyards after the severe frosts of 1956 destroyed most of the Cahors vineyards. Key to success is the immediate drinkability, achieved by softening the tannins through blending the Malbec with a maximum of 10% Merlot and Tannat. The Malbec gives the wine colour and intense fruitiness which can age, the Merlot softens the bouquet and the Tannat (main grape from the neighbouring Madiran region) enhances the Malbec. Overall the combined effort and investment has been successful, though still not recognised on a global scale.
So the answer to our question if there is room for the black wine is yes. The region has gone through such a huge transformation in the last 15 years that it does not deserve to be called black anymore with its negative connotation. They produce excellent value for money wines with lots of body. As everywhere in France it takes a bit knowledge to "locate" the excellent wines from the ones who have not yet made the journey of improvements, but I truly believe if you cannot afford the heavy priced Bordeaux wines these are fantastic alternatives to go with red meats, stews and hearty cheeses.
I would like to dedicate the article to Nick Elliott, UK Agent who introduced us to the Cahors wines, who unfortunately a year after we met in 2005 passed away in a car accident in Condom, leaving a wife and 2 young children.
If you want to read more on the Cahors Wines:
http://www.frenchentree.com/france-lot-quercy-cahors-wine/
http://www.vindecahors.fr/
http://www.atrium-online.fr/
http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/cahors.html
Marleen Stumpel
http://www.advintage-wines.co.uk/
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